2 june weeks in cuba

there are 2 kinds of people that tell you about their trip to cuba: those who loved the food and those who hated the food. despite it being a meat-heavy culture (like most), i actually had zero issues with the food. was it the best i’ve ever had? no. but commonwealth san francisco has not yet opened an outpost there, so i’ll reserve that judgement.

if there’s one takeaway i got from traveling to cuba it’s this: your experience will be totally different if you speak spanish (though the accent can be tricky). i was REALLY glad to have someone (mat) who could learn about what life is like, where the good places are, and how best to get around from people we met. so go download duolingo!

for this post i’ll talk about eat/drink/do, but at the bottom is the extra stuff that we learned that may or not still be applicable (laws and requirements seem to change on the daily there). disclaimer: we were there in june 2016 so check other blogs/travel information for the most accurate information.

Eat & Drink:

• cafe dandy: we went here no less than 3 times. the café el dandy (pictured) was decadent and delicious (it also may have had rum in it).
• coppelia ice cream: we always got the ice cream from the shop off to the side of the main building, but it looked like something out of disneyland and also it’s hard to find bad ice cream.
• atelier: this place was kind of fancy but it’s in an old house and we sat outside on a patio upstairs and it was a beautiful night and the food was excellent.
• la guarida: upstairs in what looks like an abandoned building you’ll find this very popular restaurant. make a reservation if you can, or go early keeping in mind that you might have a wait time, and then go to the roof bar for a drink.
• el cocinero: located next to la fabrica. beautiful setting, good food, classy bathrooms.
• art pub: per mat “the best cuban sandwich i’ve ever had in my life”. good food and good drinks.
• o’reilly 304: good tacos, good cocktails.

To Do:

• clandestina: a graphic design shop run by a lesbian couple that screen prints all their wares in the back of the shop. there’s t-rex poster on the wall that wasn’t for sale that still haunts my dreams. someday it will be mine.
• taller experimental de grafica: an artist collective at the end of a narrow street lined with restaurants. there were painters, print makes, photographers and the like selling their pieces there.
• la fabrica: confession: we didn’t actually make it into la fabrica. the first attempt we made happened to be the same night as the fate of the furious wrap party had rented the whole thing. the second attempt we made we got there too late (mat’s and my fault) and the line was around the block and moving super slowly. but a trusted friend went there and said it was amazing, so that’s why i’ll put it here.
• go to trinidad: take a few days trip (we were there for 2 days and with the amount of time it took to get there, probably could have used one more. it’s beautiful, coastal, and not as touristy as havana). We stayed at a bnb with a wonderful hostess (though she spoke very little english) who did our laundry, cooked our meals (for a small extra fee), and organized a driver to take us to our hiking spot and the beach.
  • hike salto del caburni: about an hour downhill hike at the end of which you’ll find a beautiful waterfall and pool to swim in, which makes the uphill hike back worth it. wear comfy shoes and bring a bathing suit, pack towel, and water/snacks.
  • drink canchanaras at their namesake bar while listening to live traditional cuban music
  • go to the beach!
• take a trip to viñales: an approximately 3 hour drive from havana, this stunning town/national park is well worth the trip. we rode horses through the tobacco fields and explored the cueva del indio and had lunch at a local spot selected by our driver (we tried to go to finca agrocologica el paraiso which is very popular and apparently requires a reservation!).

FYI:

• at the airport:
  • visas can be bought at the airport of departure. they’ll give you a form asking what your reasons for visiting cuba are. There’s a box that actually says “in support of the cuban people”. are you going to be spending money there? then yes, you are supporting the cuban people. also, when you get to the havana airport, make sure they stamp your passport if that’s important to you. i had to ask, mat did not. it’s not illegal anymore and i wanted my damn stamp!
• money
  • when we were there u.s. debit cards and credit cards didn’t work (again, things change all the time so research more current information). they charge a penalty if you change usd to cuban pesos, so we brought euros. some people also bring canadian dollars. the most important thing is to bring WAY more money than you think you’ll need.
• be aware that it is a poor country and people will try to scam you. if you look like a tourist, people will approach you with their signature english phrase “where are you from?” and try to continue the conversation from there. be polite, but don’t engage.